Monday, November 2, 2009

Keeping Our Streams Full


Constructing a rain garden is an excellent way to harvest rainfall that may otherwise become detrimental runoff. Generally a rain garden is a depression filled with plants that slows down stormwater and allows it to infiltrate into the soil. It is often referred to as a "passive" or "simple" rainwater harvesting system. Unlike "active" or "complex" systems, you are not using tanks, pipes, and pumps to collect and use water.

Many people can understand the benefit of reducing runoff that rain gardens provide. Slowing down the water's flow can prevent land from eroding and streets from flooding. However, there is a common misconception when it comes to the water's infiltration. Some believe that by preventing runoff, we are reducing a water source for river and streams.

The truth is in fact quite the opposite. Streams and rivers (especially in the West) receive a large portion of their flows from groundwater. This is called base flow and is why streams still run during droughts.

Rain gardens replenish aquifers with water which eventually contributes to streamflow. This may be delayed as it can take anywhere from days to decades for water to reach a stream after infiltrating into the ground.

Monday, October 26, 2009

A Good Foundation is Key

When planning the construction of a rainwater harvesting system, one of the most critical aspects to consider is the ground beneath the future tank. Water weights 8.34 pounds per gallon. This can add up to tremendous weight under a tank:









Two extremes to look out for are soils with high clay or high sand content. Having a large amount of clay in a soil can result in shrinking and swelling. This can result in shifting tanks or broken pipes. A large amount of sand may be prone to erosion around the base of the tank.

An ideal base for tanks over 500 gallons would be concrete. However, you can also place a layer of pea gravel over a clay base to lessen the impact of swelling.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Barrel Coverings

One concern of many who consider a rain barrel is the bright color and "industrial" appearance of the barrel. You can alter the appearance of a barrel by painting it or adding a decorative covering.

To paint a barrel, clean and lightly sand the outside. You can then add either a spray paint specific for plastic or a latex paint with brush. One color or fancy designs: the possibilities are endless. See this website for several creative barrels in Kentucky.

The decorative covering seen on the right can give you an old-fashioned-barrel appearance and is easy to assemble. Take 14 wooden fence pickets and cut them as long as your barrel is tall. Purchase 6 inch flashing and cut them into three strips that are 2 inches wide. Lay the pickets in a row (separated by an 1/4 inch) and attach the flashing. You can then attach the two ends and slip the covering over the barrel. Wooden coverings for the overflow and top can also be made from pickets.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Where does the rainfall go?

video Besides providing a free source of water, rainwater harvesting is one tool landowners can use to reduce runoff. In this video, Billy Kniffen of AgriLife Extension demonstrates how various land uses contribute differently to runoff and infiltration.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Importance of Overflow

As I waded through the lake of a parking lot this morning, I noticed the incredible speed at which the runoff collected and found its way to the storm drains. This is often how many fearless drivers get caught during floods. The power of water is usually underestimated.

The same can be said about roof runoff. Especially with rain barrels, the power of the runoff is often underestimated when making an overflow. The overflow needs to be at least the same diameter as the pipe/downspout leading into the tank. If not, water can spill out of the top of the barrel and run down the sides. This concentrated spilling water has the potential to erode away or ruin the integrity of the ground beneath the barrel.

Pipes from the overflow should lead to another barrel or be directed to an area where the water can drain safely. It is recommended that this be at least 10 feet away from a building's foundation.

Another important step to remember is equipping the overflow outlet with a device to prevent the entry of pests. A 1/16" mesh screen will keep out mosquitoes. If larger pests, such as mice, are an issue, larger, more sturdy screen may be needed. Do not use one with openings larger than 1/4".

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

A Bountiful Harvest

One comment often made by the rainwater harvesting naysayers during dry times is, "There's no rain to harvest!"

Well, it is true that during the months of July and August this year, College Station received just over 3 inches of rain. However, there is a reason that we refer to rainwater catchment as rainwater "harvesting." Like any agricultural crop, the harvest of rain must be preserved and used in moderation. That one harvest needs to last until the following harvest.

The naysayer would be one who never had to rely on their own vegetable garden to get through the winter: "Just go to the grocery store." Sadly, for many people that same mentality is taken with water: "Just turn on the tap." A rainwater harvester understands the value of water because they have to make it last from harvest to harvest.

For the rainwater harvesters, it has recently been a bountiful harvest. In College Station, we recorded over 7 inches of rain in September and nearly 1.5 inches already in October. A bumper crop indeed.

It is truly an exciting time when harvesting the rain, just as it is with harvesting vegetables. It gives the rainwater harvester a sense of accomplishment, which the naysayer would have difficulty finding at the grocery store or while turning on the tap.

We as rainwater harvesters need to quell these naysayers by sharing our bountiful harvest. Share with your knowledge and enthusiasm. Just like the Victory Gardens of the 1940s, we can convince many to join us in the joys of rainwater harvesting.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Risk of Legionella Bacteria in Rainwater

Information provided by Dr. Dennis Lye, an EPA Research Microbiologist

The causative agent of “Legionnaires Disease” is Legionella pneumophilia. This organism is ubiquitous in the environment. It can be found in ponds, pools of water, and even in eves/gutters of buildings. The mere presence of this organism is not enough to be a risk to humans. This is why most rainwater collections systems will not pose a risk to healthy humans.

However, we must be cautious and concerned when any of the following occurs:

  • The rainwater collection system is not treated and a biofilm build up within the system.
  • The water is heated at some point before usage.
  • The water is aerosolized in some manner (fountain, showerhead, mist, etc.) in a way that humans could be exposed to the aerosol.
  • Immunocompromised individuals (including infants and some elderly) coming into contact with any of these aforementioned water because they are more likely to be infected with this organism than a healthy individual.

Any of the following will help to eliminate concern about this risk:

  • Maintain a chlorine residual in the rainwater system.
  • Do not heat the water or aerosolize the water before usage.
  • Use the water for landscaping.

There is a Center for Disease Control (CDC) site with more information if you need it –

http://www.cdc.gov/legionella/patient_facts.htm